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« Tuna 3 / 2023

Cheers, Comrades! Guest Menus of the Administrative Department of the Council of Ministers of the Estonian SSR from the 1980s

This article examines the food culture of the Soviet Estonian nomenklatura and their distinguished guests. The analysis draws on menus and other related documents compiled by the Administrative Department of the Council of Ministers of the Estonian SSR from 1980-1987 as well as some oral and written memoirs of members of the elite and their service staff. The receptions, lunches, and dinners took place in the most prestigious restaurants and other distinguished spaces (concert halls, hotels, guests’ residences, etc.), usually in the capital Tallinn. The local Communist Party and governmental elite frequently celebrated Soviet festive days and major events (congresses, jubilees, and anniversaries) as well as visits of prominent foreign guests with luxurious feasts. The documents reveal that both the Soviet leaders and their guests were divided into hierarchical categories, and this was reflected in their access to delicious food and drink. For example, standard guest menus from 1984 distinguish between three categories of guests whose daily food costs ranged from 20 roubles and 86 kopeks to 9 roubles and 25 kopeks. Only the highest category was served delicacies and drinks in their hotel or residence rooms.

At a time when ordinary Estonians suffered from severe food crisis and had to cope with daily food shortages, the consumption patterns of the elite were quite similar to those in the Western world. The menus of the leading comrades were especially rich in all sorts of meat and fish dishes, yet the choice of vegetables and cheese was limited. Classical refreshments that Soviet cuisine had adapted from French and German culinary culture dominated, like various meat and fish jellies, roulades, filled eggs, tomatoes and cucumbers, sweet compotes, cremes, cakes, and biscuits. Foreign guests were served plenty of fruit. There were always at least three kinds of fruit on the table. To some extent, menus were adapted to national tastes. For example, visitors from India were served more vegetables, the delegation from Kazakhstan ate mutton barbecue, and Bulgarian comrades could drink Turkish coffee.

Soviet restaurants, cafes, and canteens had to follow standard recipes laid out by the Soviet central authorities. For the nomenklatura, the norms of the highest category were applied. Thus, cooks could use large quantities of the best ingredients and also serve special dishes created by master chefs. Although the choice of alcohol at the parties of the Estonian elite was limited, this was compensated by significant quantities of wine, vodka, and brandy. The privileges of Soviet leaders were manifested in the diversity, quantity, and quality of food as well as in the impeccable service and luxurious milieu of the feasts.